AHA vs BHA: The Skincare Acids Explained

Discover the key differences between AHAs and BHAs, how they benefit your skin, and which exfoliant is right for your skincare routine.

What’s in this Article?

Read Time: 8 minutes

What Is AHA and BHA?
What are the differences between AHAs and BHAs
Benefits of AHAs and BHAs
Facts Overview
AHA and BHA Skincare Routine
Can AHAs Be Combined with PHAs?
Exfoliating acids and Sun Protection
Summary
FAQs

Introduction

What Is AHA and BHA?

AHA and BHA are two types of exfoliating acids that help remove dead skin cells, revealing fresher, brighter looking skin underneath. While both improve texture and tone, they work in different ways and suit different skin types.

What Is AHA?

AHA, short for Alpha Hydroxy Acid, is a group of water-soluble acids often derived from natural sources such as fruits, milk, or sugar cane. AHAs work by gently breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells on the skin’s surface, encouraging them to shed and allowing healthier, more radiant looking skin to emerge.

If you’re dealing with rough texture, dryness, dullness, or uneven skin tone, AHAs can help improve your complexion by promoting smoother skin and boosting natural glow. Common types of AHA include Glycolic Acid, known for its deep exfoliation; Lactic Acid, which is hydrating and gentle; and Citric Acid, sometimes used for brightening.

What is BHA?

BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acid, and the most well-known example is Salicylic Acid. Unlike AHAs, BHAs are oil-soluble, which allows them to penetrate deeper into the skin, specifically into clogged pores. This makes them especially effective for those with oily, blemish-prone, or combination skin types. BHAs help dissolve excess sebum, clear out congestion, and reduce blackheads, making them a good choice for blemish-prone skin.

In addition to AHA and BHA, there's a third type of exfoliating acid: PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid). PHA works similarly to AHA, but with a more gentle approach, making it an ideal choice for sensitive skin. It helps exfoliate the skin gradually, providing smooth texture, hydration, and improving the skin’s barrier function while minimising the risk of irritation.

What are the differences between AHAs and BHAs?

AHA vs BHA: Key Similarities

Both AHAs and BHAs help exfoliate the skin and improve texture, but they share several key benefits that make them effective for different skin types. They both:

Promote the removal of dead skin cells, encouraging a smoother, fresher complexion and enhancing the overall appearance of the skin.
Assist in minimising the visibility of enlarged pores by clearing out excess oil, dirt, and dead skin cells that can contribute to pore blockages.
Contribute to the reduction of signs of ageing, such as fine lines and wrinkles, by stimulating cell turnover and promoting Collagen synthesis.
Support skin tone evening, addressing concerns like discoloration, hyperpigmentation, and dark spots, resulting in a more uniform complexion.
Enhance overall skin texture, leaving the skin feeling smoother and more refined.
Promote pore unclogging, which can help prevent blemishes and blackheads formation by addressing the buildup of oil and impurities within the pored impurities within the pores.

AHA vs BHA: Key Differences

While AHAs and BHAs both help to exfoliate the skin and improve texture, the main difference lies in how and where they work. AHAs are best known for smoothing the skin’s surface, while BHAs go deeper to unclog pores.

AHAs are ideal for addressing dullness, uneven tone, dryness, and early signs of ageing. They exfoliate the outermost layer of the skin to promote a fresher, more radiant appearance.
BHAs, such as Salicylic Acid, penetrate into the pores, making them particularly effective for helping to manage oiliness, blackheads, blemishes, and enlarged pores.

Together, they offer complementary benefits - and for many skin types, using both (in rotation or as part of a balanced formula) can deliver clearer, smoother, and more even-looking skin.

Benefits of AHAs and BHAs

Incorporating AHAs or BHAs into your skincare routine isn’t just about exfoliation — it’s about achieving smoother looking and more radiant skin over time. Both acids offer targeted solutions, and when used correctly, they can help visibly transform your skin’s look and feel.

Young woman using Nivea Luminous Skin Glow serums

5 Benefits of AHAs

Brighter, More Even Skin Tone

AHAs promote cell turnover, which can help fade dark spots, sun spots, and post-blemish marks, revealing a more glowing complexion.

Smoother Skin Texture

By dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, AHAs gently resurface the skin, helping to reduce rough patches, dryness, and visible flakiness.

Reduction in Fine Lines

AHAs support Collagen stimulation, helping to improve skin firmness and smooth the appearance of fine lines and creases over time.

Boosted Hydration

Some AHAs, such as Lactic Acid, act as natural ingredients that help to attract and retain moisture in the skin for improved softness and hydration, especially in dry or mature skin.

Improved Absorption of Skincare Products

By removing the buildup of dead skin cells, AHAs allow serums and moisturisers to penetrate more deeply and work more effectively.

5 Benefits of BHAs

Deep Pore Cleansing

BHAs are oil-soluble and penetrate the pores, helping to remove sebum, debris, and buildup that cause blackheads and blemishes.

Breakout and Blemish Prevention

The most used BHAs Salicylic Acid has antibacterial properties, making it excellent for minimising the risk of bacterial growth and blemishes appearance without over-drying the skin.

Reduced Oiliness and Shine

Regular BHA use helps balance oil production, leaving the skin with a more matte appearance and reducing the need for blotting or reapplying makeup.

Smaller-Looking Pores

BHAs help clear pores, making them appear smaller and helping minimise congested pores.

Gentle on Sensitive, Blemish-Prone Skin

Despite being powerful, when used at the right concentration in a gentle formula, BHAs are generally well-tolerated, offering effective results for oily and blemish-prone skin.

Young woman using NIVEA Sun UV Face Specialist Derma Skin Clear

AHA vs BHA

Facts Overview

What are AHAs and BHAs?
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are chemical exfoliants used in skincare to remove dead skin cells and improve skin texture and clarity.

What are the differences between AHA and BHA?
AHAs are water-soluble and exfoliate the skin’s surface; BHAs are oil-soluble and penetrate deeper into pores.

Can AHA be combined with BHA?
Yes, but with care. AHAs and BHAs can be used together in an appropriate formula to target multiple skin concerns. AHAs exfoliate the surface, while BHAs clear pores.

AHA and BHA Skincare Routine

Here is a guide on how to use AHA and BHA to incorporate both acids into your daily routine:

Young woman using NIVEA Derma Skin Clear Toner

1. Cleanse

Start by cleansing with the NIVEA Derma Skin Clear Wash Gel, formulated with Salicylic Acid (BHA), Sea Salt and Niacinamide, it deeply cleanses helping to remove excess oil, dirt, and impurities from your skin while clearing the pores to help prevent breakouts and blackheads. Gentle for the skin, it mattifies and refines the texture for a clear and smooth skin.

2. Exfoliate (2–3 times per week)

Next, use the NIVEA Derma Skin Clear Scrub, enriched with Salicylic Acid (BHA), Sea Salt and Niacinamide, it supports your skin's natural renewal process, refines pores and reduces blackheads and blemishes without drying out to provide a clearer skin complexion.

3. Tone

After exfoliating or cleansing, apply the NIVEA Derma Skin Clear Toner, which contains Salicylic Acid (BHA). A refreshing toner that helps balance the blemish-prone skin and further cleanse the pores. With Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide, this toner helps tighten pores and remove dead skin cells.. It also controls excess oil production, which can contribute to breakouts and skin congestion. Regular use of this toner can enhance your skin’s clarity, providing a smoother, more even texture.

Discover the Derma Skin Clear Range

The NIVEA Derma Skin Clear range is specifically designed for oily, blemish-prone skin, combining AHA and BHA to provide a powerful yet gentle exfoliation routine. Whether you’re looking for a daily cleanser, an scrub, a night exfoliator or a toner to refine your pores, the Derma Skin Clear range addresses a variety of skin concerns caused by excess oil, clogged pores, and uneven skin texture. Each product works together to enhance skin clarity, smoothness, and radiance, while ensuring the skin remains hydrated with a healthy look.

By incorporating these products into your routine, you can benefit from the combined power of AHA and BHA, which work in different layers of the skin surface and in the pores to give you clearer, smoother, and more even-toned skin over time.

Derma Skin Clear

4. Exfoliate (Night time)

After toning, use the NIVEA Derma Skin Clear Chemical Exfoliator to provide gentle exfoliation with AHA. This product helps refine skin texture and help target blemishes, and it’s perfect for nightly use. Simply apply it after toning, without rinsing, to ensure smooth, clear skin without over-drying.

5. Moisturise

Exfoliating acids like AHA and BHA work to remove dead skin cells and refine the texture of your skin, but they can also leave the skin more vulnerable to dryness or irritation. That’s why replenishing your skin with a moisturiser is an important step to maintain and protect your skin’s moisture balance. NIVEA offers a range of different moisturisers, whether you’re looking for something lightweight for everyday use, or a richer, more hydrating option for dry or sensitive skin, choose a formula with ingredients known for their efficacy, such as Hyaluronic Acid to help lock the moisture in and prevent water loss.

NIVEA Moisturisers

6. Sun Protection

AHAs and BHAs can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so always apply broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher) during the day. NIVEA's face sunscreen range is specifically designed to offer effective sun protection for the face. Whether you're looking for a lightweight, everyday sunscreen or a more water-resistant formula for added protection, NIVEA has a variety of face sunscreens to suit your needs. For the best protection and to support your exfoliating routine, make sure to use a sunscreen suitable for the face, offering high SPF and long-lasting hydration. Remember to reapply regularly.

Face Sunscreen

Young woman using NIVEA Derma Skin Clear Chemical Exfoliator

Can AHAs Be Combined with PHAs?

Yes, AHA and PHA can offer enhanced results for many skin types, especially when combined. While AHA works to exfoliate the outermost layers of the skin, PHA provides a gentler exfoliation, making it suitable for more sensitive skin. Together in an appropriate formula, they complement each other by exfoliating the skin while minimising the risk of over-exfoliation or irritation.

You can also use AHA and PHA alongside BHA (Salicylic Acid), but it’s important to avoid over-exfoliating. If you’re considering using all three, choose a dermatologically tested formula combining these three types of exfoliants. It is typically advised to avoid using chemical exfoliators more than once a day. g. This approach will allow you to target multiple skin concerns, like uneven tone, clogged pores, and blemishes, while minimising the risk of irritation.

Try a balanced, gentle formula to gently exfoliate with AHAs and PHA to remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and encourage skin renewal for radiant skin. For an effective yet gentle exfoliation, try the NIVEA Luminous630 Skin Glow Liquid Refiner, formulated with 4% AHA, 1% PHA, and Aloe Vera. PHA is a gentler exfoliant than AHA, making it ideal for sensitive skin while providing added hydration. This leave-on peeling formula gently exfoliates to remove dead skin cells for instantly smooth skin and an even complexion in just 7 days*.

^{*Clinical evaluation, 48 volunteers}

Luminous630 Skin Glow Daily Liquid

Exfoliating acids and Sun Protection: Why SPF Is Essential

Whether you’re using AHAs, BHAs, or a combination of both, it’s important to understand how exfoliating acids affect your skin’s relationship with the sun. These ingredients work by removing dead skin cells from the surface or clearing out pores, which can temporarily make your skin more sensitive to UV exposure.

AHAs and BHAs increase photosensitivity, which means your newly exfoliated skin is more prone to sunburn, irritation, and long-term sun damage. Even minimal sun exposure can cause harm if your skin isn’t properly protected.

Without proper sun protection, you risk irritation, redness, and even hyperpigmentation, especially after using exfoliating acids.

In addition to sunscreen, gradual use of exfoliating acids is essential, starting slowly (2-3 times per week) allows your skin to build tolerance while minimising potential irritation or increased sensitivity, especially for beginners.

How to protect your skin:

Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every morning, even on cloudy or indoor days. UV rays can penetrate clouds and, to some extent, even windowsand consistent SPF use is your best defence.
Use exfoliating acids in your nighttime routine, especially if you're new to acids or have sensitive skin. This minimises immediate sun exposure after application and allows your skin to recover overnight.
Make sunscreen a daily habit and non-negotiable when using chemical exfoliants like AHAs or BHAs. Regular SPF use not only protects your skin but also enhances the results of your exfoliating routine.

Summary

Understanding the difference between AHAs and BHAs is the first step toward choosing the right exfoliant for your skin. AHAs work on the surface to smooth texture, brighten tone, and reduce fine lines, making them ideal for dry, dull, or uneven skin. BHAs, on the other hand, go deeper into the pores to target oil, congestion, and blemishes, making them a great fit for oily or blemish-prone skin.

Both ingredients offer unique benefits, and when used correctly, they can even be combined for more comprehensive results. Whichever you choose, it’s important to start slowly, follow with a moisturiser, and always apply a high SPF to protect your newly exfoliated skin.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is AHA or BHA better for hyperpigmentation and dark spots?

AHA, especially Glycolic or Lactic Acid, is best for helping fade dark spots and evening out skin tone through surface exfoliation.

How often should I use AHA or BHA?

Start 2-3 times per week and increase frequency gradually as your skin builds tolerance. Daily use is possible with gentle, well-formulated products such as the NIVEA Luminous630 Skin Glow Liquid Refiner.

Do I need to wear sunscreen when using AHA or BHA?

Absolutely. Both acids increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight. Apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ every morning to protect your skin and prevent further pigmentation.

Can I use AHA or BHA on sensitive skin?

Yes, but start slowly and choose a mild formula. Look for products with added soothing ingredients, like Aloe Vera or PHA, which are gentler on sensitive skin. The NIVEA Luminous630 Skin Glow Liquid Refiner is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive.

Can I use AHA or BHA with Retinol?

It's best not to layer AHA/BHA with Retinol in the same routine, especially if you're new to these ingredients. Alternate their use, for example, exfoliate on some nights and use Retinol on others to help reduce the risk of irritation, consult with a dermatologist or healthcare professional if experiencing any irritation, especially if you have sensitive skin or specific skin concerns.

How are AHAs and BHAs different from physical exfoliants?

AHAs and BHAs are types of chemical exfoliants that use active ingredients (such as acids or enzymes) to gently dissolve dead skin cells on the surface or inside pores. In contrast, physical exfoliants rely on manual action using scrubs, brushes, or exfoliating gloves - to physically buff away dead skin.

Should I moisturise after using AHA or BHA?

Yes, always follow with a moisturiser to restore hydration and support the skin barrier. Exfoliants work best when paired with calming ingredients.