young woman standing in the sun

WHAT IS MELANIN? WHAT DOES IT DO FOR SKIN?

Discover what Melanin is, how it is produced, what it does for the skin and how you can reduce or balance its production.

What's in this article:

WHAT IS MELANIN? WHAT DOES MELANIN DO?

Melanin is a complex substance derived from the Amino Acid Tyrosine. It exists in different amounts in human and animal skin, giving you your eye, hair, and skin colour.

Our skin colour varies based on factors like blood flow, diet, and Melanin, produced by cells named melanocytes. Though the number of melanocytes is similar among people, the varying Melanin production gives different skin shades. 

Melanin shields the skin from the sun, and increased production leads to a tan, therefore helping to protect your body against sunburn.

TYPES OF MELANIN

Melanocytes create two visible kinds of Melanin which differ in terms of their colour tone and location on the body:

  1. EuMelanin:
    This comes in black and brown varieties, contributing to the dark tones in skin, eyes, and hair. The EuMelanin determines hair colour, with blonde hair resulting from an absence of black EuMelanin and a small amount of brown EuMelanin.
     
  2. PheoMelanin:
    Responsible for pigments in pinkish areas like lips and nipples, PheoMelanin is predominant in individuals with red hair when combined equally with EuMelanin.

DIFFERENT SHADES OF MELANIN IN THE SKIN

Your skin gets its colour due to the production of melanin within the melanosomes, organelles located in the melanocytes. These cells are found in the lower part of the skin's epiderm called the basal layer. They have long branches which distribute the melanosomes containing melanin evenly throughout the upper layers of the skin. The colour of your skin depends on how much brown-black (EuMelanin) or yellow-red (PheoMelanin) there is, and also on how many Melanosomes are in the Melanocytes.
Melanin production

WHERE IS IT PRODUCED?

Melanin is made by melanocytes which are found in the basal layer of the epiderm (top layer of the skin) and hair follicles. They are also present in different parts of your body, such as:

  • Adipose tissue (fat) ;
  • Eyes irises
  • Specific areas of your brain
  • Certain regions of your ‘adrenal gland’, found on the top of each kidney
  • Your inner ear
What Does Melanin Do?

HOW DOES MELANIN PROTECT THE SKIN?

woman using Nivea Sun Triple Protection cream
  1. Defence against UV radiation

    Melanin, mostly Eumelanin, participates in the protection of your cells in the outer skin layer, known as the epidermis, from harmful UV light, including UVC, UVB, UVA, and blue light. This protection is achieved by absorbing UV light, helping to prevent damages of the sensitive DNA of your skin cells. It should be noted, however, that this protection is not complete, and that sun protection is necessary even for people with dark skin.

  2. The skin’s natural barrier

    Melanin also works as a defender against harmful particles called reactive oxygen species (ROS). It acts like an antioxidant, neutralising ROS that is made when UV light damages the skin. Without protective things like antioxidants, these ROS can cause stress and damage our cells.

    It is important to note that these protective effects are mainly linked to eumelanin. Pheomelanin, which is produced in fair-skinned people, has a much weaker protective effect and may even generate substances that can react with DNA and cause mutations. So don't forget to apply your sun cream, even if you already have a tan.
Facts Overview

Melanin

Melanin Types: 
Melanin, derived from the amino acid Tyrosine, comes in two main types - EuMelanin (dark brown) and PheoMelanin (red or yellow tint).

Skin Defense Mechanism:
Melanin acts as a natural defence, absorbing UV light and helping to prevent damage to the skin's DNA, protecting against UVC, UVB, UVA, and blue light.

Consequences of Melanin Deficiency:
Insufficient Melanin is linked to skin disorders (vitiligo, albinism, melasma), increased risk of vision loss, sun damage, and hearing issues in the inner ear.

Balance Melanin Levels:
Methods to help balance melanin levels include using adapted sun creams, addressing hyperpigmentation with skincare products, maintaining a balanced diet rich in antioxidants, Vitamins A, C, and E, and avoiding unsafe practices like tanning beds.

CONSEQUENCES OF MELANIN DEFICIENCY

A lack of Melanin is associated with various skin disorders and health issues, including:
  1. Vitiligo:
    This condition leads to the loss of skin colour, resulting in white patches. It occurs when the immune system destroys melanocytes. While vitiligo can affect anyone, it is usually more noticeable in people with darker skin.

  2. Albinism:
    A rare condition characterised by very little Melanin, causing pale skin, white hair, and blue eyes. People with albinism also face an increased risk of vision loss and sun damage.

  3. Pigment loss after skin damage:
    In cases of skin infections, burns, or blisters, the body may struggle to replace Melanin in the damaged area.

  4. Hearing loss:
    A deficiency in Melanin in the part of the inner ear is linked to hearing loss. People with insufficient Melanin have a higher risk of hearing problems.
Balancing Melanin levels

HOW TO REDUCE EXCESS MELANIN

Certain people generate an excess of Melanin, a condition referred to as hyperpigmentation. This is a benign occurrence, and people with heightened Melanin production typically develop dark spots on skin compared to the surrounding areas.

There are various treatment choices for hyperpigmentation. For instance, applying sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher daily can reduce the impact of UV light on the skin and help to prevent spots appearance.

If you are experiencing high levels of excess melanin, or if you are in any doubt about the nature of your spots (irregular spots, bumped spots that change colour), it is recommended to consult your healthcare professional who will be able to check that it is not a more dangerous condition and who may recommend specialised topical treatments or specific treatments.

BALANCING MELANIN LEVELS

A 5-step Skincare Routine to Help Balancing Excess of Melanin in Top Layers of the Skin:

To address concerns related to melanin excesses, such as hyperpigmentation or uneven skin tone, it is important to tailor your skincare routine accordingly.

blonde woman using NIVEA Cellular Luminous630 Anti Dark-Spot Face Treatment Serum

1. Cleanse

Begin by cleansing your skin with a gentle cleanser adapted to your skin type to effectively remove dirt, oil, and impurities.
This sets the stage for targeted exfoliation, crucial for addressing dark spots and uneven skin tone. Incorporating an exfoliant, helps to shed dead skin cells and promote cell turnover, and may help to gradually diminish the appearance of dark spots.

 

2. Serum

Follow up with a hydrating serum such as the NIVEA Cellular Luminous630 Anti Dark-Spot Face Treatment Serum, enriched with Hyaluronic Acid and patented Luminous ingredient which acts by balancing existing pigmentation to fade spots and prevent their appearance.

 

3. Moisturise

Make sure to apply a moisturiser such as the NIVEA Cellular Luminous630 Anti Dark-Spot Day Fluid SPF50 that acts at both cell levels to fade dark spots and prevent their appearance, whilst protecting the skin from sun-induced photoaging, for a mattified finish.

For the evening routine, apply the NIVEA Cellular Luminous630 Anti Dark-Spot Even Tone Night Cream, formulated with Hyaluronic Acid and patented Luminous630® ingredient to strenghten the skin at night, all while reducing the look of dark spots and hyperpigmentation, with visible result from 4 weeks*.

Warning: use products containing LUMINOUS630® no more than 4 times a day.

*Product use test, 80 women, 5 weeks

4. Eye Cream

Applying eye cream can help reduce the appearance of dark circles, puffiness, and fine lines around the eyes. It provides hydration to delicate skin, improves skin texture, and helps to maintain a youthful and radiant look.

The NIVEA Luminous630 Dark Spot Solution Anti Dark-Circles Eye Cream is formulated with the patented Luminous630 ingredient to help balance the look of pigmentation irregularities and visibly reduce dark circles around the eyes.

5. Daily Sun Protection

You may want to note it is important to reapply SPF protection frequently throughout the day to preserve skin health and radiance.
The NIVEA UV Shine Control SPF50 protects your skin immediately against sun exposure and other UV-induced face skin damage with an instant and long-lasting mattifying effect.

Sometimes stretch marks may also present Melanin excess.  If you are noticing stretch marks on your body, the NIVEA Luminous range offers the NIVEA Anti Stretch Marks Body Serum to even out the skin tone, with the first visible results in 2 weeks.

If you prefer a creamier texture, you could use the NIVEA Anti Marks & Spots body cream as a replacement, providing 48 hours of moisture and reducing the visibility of marks in 4 weeks***.

One application per day on the targeted area is sufficient. Use only one product containing LUMINOUS630® on your body per day.
 
*Consumer test, 89 participants
**Instrumental test, 33 subjects
***Consumer test, 87 participants

 

It is also important to pick the right sunscreen for your skin. The NIVEA Protect and Bronze range ensures that you are equipped with a sunscreen that provides effective protection against UV rays, with no greasy effect. The products are formulated with tan-activating oils and pro-melanin extracts for a beautiful and even tan.

IS IT POSSIBLE TO BOOST OR REDUCE MELANIN FOR A HEALTHY COMPLEXION?

No safe method exists to boost melanin levels in the skin for tanning purposes. However, specific nutrients may aid in protecting the skin from UV damage.
young woman using Nivea Luminous Anti Spot Hand cream

1. Antioxidants

Antioxidants seem promising in helping to protect the skin from free radicals, which can be generated following a UV exposure. Some Micronutrients as well as flavonoids or polyphenols, found in the plants people eat, work as powerful antioxidants which can be useful to protect the skin from external influences. Micronutrients could also stimulate Melanin production. Some of them might boost Melanin, while others could help reduce it.

To get more antioxidants, try eating foods like dark leafy greens, dark berries, dark chocolate, and colourful veggies. Taking vitamin and mineral supplements might also be helpful.

 

2. Vitamin A

Vitamin A is crucial in keeping your skin healthy and could play a role in Melanin production. You get Vitamin A from your diet, especially from veggies with beta carotene such as carrots, sweet potatoes, spinach, and peas.

3. Vitamin E

Vitamin E is vital for keeping your skin healthy and acts as an antioxidant that may help protect the skin from sun damage and accelerated ageing. This effect may also help protect melanin-producing cells and help maintain melanin levels in the skin.

On the other hand, in cases of hyperpigmentation, some research has shown that vitamin E applied to the skin can reduce melanin production.

To boost your Vitamin E intake, you can either take supplements or include more Vitamin E-rich foods in your diet, such as vegetables, grains, seeds, and nuts.

4. Vitamin C

Similar to Vitamins A and E, Vitamin C acts as an antioxidant. It is essential for maintaining healthy mucous membranes and might have some influence on Melanin production and skin protection. 

Including Vitamin C-rich foods in your diet, like citrus, berries, and leafy green vegetables, has beneficial effects on the skin. Applied on your skin, it also can help lighten dark spots by slowing down the activity of an enzyme called tyrosinase. People often use it in skincare to reduce dark spots and even for treating dark spots on the gums.

 

It is however recommended to consult your health practitioner before integrating any supplement into your daily diet.

HOW TO GET TANNED WITHOUT INCREASING MELANIN

Although it is not safe to increase your Melanin production by using tanning beds, you can make your skin look more tanned without exposing yourself to harmful UV rays thanks to self-tan products. Sunless tanners do not increase the Melanin in your skin, or provide any UV protection, but they leave a pigmented effect on your skin. 

This pigment is called Melanoidin, which can last a few days, and then fade as your skin produces new cells.

If, however, you want to conceal brown spots on your face caused by the sun while getting a tinted effect more even, you may also want to use the NIVEA Cellular630 Anti Dark-Spot Tinted Fluid SPF 20 which acts on a dual action, by naturally covering imperfections, whilst reducing dark spots with visible results in 4 weeks*.

*Clinical evaluation, 48 women, 12 weeks
LUMINOUS630 RANGE

SUMMARY

Melanin makes your skin’s colour and serves as a natural defence against UV radiation. However, an excess of Melanin, often caused by factors like sun exposure and hormonal fluctuations, can lead to hyperpigmentation and dark spots. To prevent these from darkening and to reduce the risk of skin damage, it is recommended using sunscreens with high SPF.
Therefore, tailoring a skincare routine through cleansing, targeted serums and moisturisers with sun protection is very important.

Additionally, incorporating antioxidants and Vitamins A, C and E into one’s diet supports skin function and its protection. You also may want to avoid harmful practices like tanning beds. Instead, use self-tanning products which can help to and achieve a radiant complexion without exposing the skin to UV rays.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:

HOW DOES MELANIN CONTRIBUTE TO THE DIFFERENT SHADES OF SKIN?

Melanocytes, cells responsible to the production of Melanin, gather in the lower part of the epiderm called the basal layer. The Melanin contained in the melanosomes will then migrate to the surface of the skin. The colour of the skin depends on the type of Melanin (brown-black for euMelanin and yellow-red for pheoMelanin), on their quantity, as well as the distribution of melanosomes in the cells at the surface of the skin.

ARE THERE SPECIFIC NIVEA PRODUCTS THAT CAN HELP TO REDUCE MELANIN-RELATED CONCERNS LIKE HYPERPIGMENTATION?

Yes, you could use the NIVEA Luminous range to fade dark spots linked to excess of Melanin or to improvethe appearance of stretch marks. The NIVEA Anti Stretch Marks Body Serum and NIVEA Anti Marks & Spots body cream can be used for this purpose to help achieve more even-toned skin.

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE KEY NUTRIENTS OR VITAMINS MENTIONED IN THE ARTICLE WHICH COULD INFLUENCE MELANIN PRODUCTION NATURALLY?

Antioxidants, Vitamin A, Vitamin E, and Vitamin C as nutrients that may influence positively or negatively Melanin production. These can be obtained through a balanced diet or supplements.

WHAT IS THE ROLE OF MELANIN IN DEFENDING AGAINST REACTIVE OXYGEN SPECIES (ROS)

Melanin acts as an antioxidant, defending skin cells from harmful molecules known as reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by UV light. This protection helps prevent oxidative stress, which can cause significant harm to cells.

HOW CAN MELANIN LEVELS BE INFLUENCED BY ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS OR LIFESTYLE CHOICES?

Certain lifestyle factors, like sun exposure and overall health, can impact Melanin levels and skin appearance.